Tight lacing and corseting is also an element of women’s fashion of this time period. This gown replaces the form-fitting cote-hardie. įashion seems to change once again in the 15 th century with the introduction of the houppelande, a gown featuring a higher waistline, a v-neck, and tubular sleeves. Women were also depicted exhibiting a slouched posture. Headdress became increasingly lavish, an increase of color use on clothing was apparent, and a hairless look – high hairline and plucked eyebrows – was popular. These would also feature decorative buttons, and in some cases, even fur. Sideless surcoats would be placed over the cote-hardie or kirtle, exposing the tight fitting garment beneath it through its wide armholes. The décolletage was quite low, and was often criticized: “a gown open thus at the neck seems like the hole of a privy.” īy the mid-14 th century, streamers, also known as tippets, were beginning to appear on the cote-hardie, or low-necked, tight fitting, often dagged edged gowns. This aesthetic also proved to be inspiration from the garments of the Muslim world, as the crusades helped to expose the continent to new and foreign cultures. Buttons also allowed for garments to cling more closely to the skin, especially in the tight sleeves of the kirtle. Buttons became more widely used, and served as an important piece of ornamentation. By a quarter of the way into the century, however, women’s fashion began to feature a better cut and a closer fit. Long ceremonial garments seemed to be the norm for women of the age. The 14 th century emerges similarly to those before it. Some fashion historians have referred to this period as the beginning of western fashion and the birth of tailoring. For centuries the style remained relatively similar, but as soon as the 14 th century hits, drastic changes can be witnessed. The changing of silhouette in women’s fashion is immediately apparent when looking at a timeline of the middle ages. Long, draping, formless garments give way to tighter, more form fitting women’s dress. Images from the Luttrell Psalter (14th Century) and the Queen Mary Psalter (14th Century)
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